Task 8 - Sculptural Samples (w/ photo documentation & Process & Evaluation)

Papier Mache Sample

Process of Creating my Papier Mache Sample

In order to construct the body for my papier mache mini beast that I have drawn on A3 paper in my final illustration. I first cut cardboard into small squares then flattened them, I placed them inside like the picture above and wrapped 2-3 sheets of newspaper around it in order to strengthen the overall structure of the body for the minibeast. I did this because the legs and arms must be attached to the body and they would need support so that they do not come loose. I believe I did this part well although this was the very first step of the beetle so there isn't much I could have improved on at this stage.

After I wrapped the newspaper around the cardboard I required it to stay like that. Therefore, I wrapped a line of masking tape around the circumference of the rolled newspaper and this kept the cardboard in place rather well. I twisted both ends of the newspaper to try and keep these together. However because paper is soft and even when twisted may not stay together for a long duration I had to close the gaps in the twisted paper to create a whole body for my papier mache mini beast.

After the body started to come together I need to create a more rounded shape for the body of my mini beast because it has a wasp like body. It also supports the overall structure and makes it stronger and has less surface area so the entire beast is more dense. The process of shaping the body has also given me a decent structure.

I then decided to add some legs to make the papier mache beast look more realistic. I immediately noticed that the legs are not stable, meaning when I pierced the newspaper with the wire I then had to pierce the cardboard to make it a little more stable.

The next part was too add newspaper too the legs to give them a solid shape (because the legs of my mini beast are not wire thin). This was quite challenging, I needed to add them to the tip of the wire and the wire consistently pierced the newspaper. To resolve this issue, I simply added duct tape to the end of the wire then wrapped the newspaper around the entirety of the wire legs. This required the newspaper to be pulled very tight so it would not come loose, once tight enough and covered enough surface area, I held it in place whilst connecting it to the wire structure using masking tape. 

As shown by the picture above I was not required to put masking tape all over the legs, but it did require a lot of support because if I hadn't put this much on the legs may have un raveled and became lose, all in all weakening the overall structure and most likely not supporting it's own weight meaning it probably couldn't stand up. As I wanted the creature too still have thin legs, I tried as hard as possible to wrap the legs with as little newspaper as possible whilst still giving it shape and support, this was a hard task but I would definitely do it again considering the time because it turned out very well.

In the image above I have added then wings. To do this, I referred to my final 2D illustration for a basic shape, but that was too large to just copy, I had to scale it down and I did a rough shape of what the wings looked like with fairly accurate measurements, I used a crafting knife in order to slice through the cardboard fairly neatly to ensure the shape and detail was kept. Once the cardboard was cut out, I needed to flatten it, I pressed onto it to reduce the overall thickness of it, this may have weakened the structure but that strength would be kept once the wings hardened after the papier mache was applied. 

The wings overall position was also inspired by my 2D illustration and this can be shown from the image above. In order to add them to the body I added a large amount of masking tape to the centre of the body that came off to the left and right of the mini beast, I then connected the cardboard wing shaped pieces to each side and supported it with more masking tape on the under side of the wings. In order to keep them in a flat sort of position I needed to add quite a lot more to suspend them like this on top, this is because they previously they fell down to the floor without it.

After this, I added the papier mache to the wings, This also had it's problems. Firstly, the wings are delicate meaning I had to constantly re-attach them if they ever came un-done. The wings were also quite flat and I wanted to keep them that way, unfortunately the masking tape did not let me do this, this is because with each layer I added they became thicker and this also created the problem that I had before where they would fall due to the weight so more masking tape support was needed to suspend them. Applying the masking tape was straight forward and I did it using the same materials as I did before. (Large paint brush and diluted glue.) 

Before I put the final layer of papier mache and glue over the top of the mini beast, I had to do a few tweaks to the creature. The first one was to bend the back legs slightly In order for the structure to actually stand up, this was fairly straight forward and their wasn't any issues because the wire is so easy to bend and is able to hold it's own weight. 

Another small part I wanted to tweak was to make the wings look as if they were actually flying due to some feedback, I did this by adding tape to the under side of the wing, wrapping it around the front of the wing then connecting it to the body of the mini beast, this pull the wing up then supported it their, There was one issue with this which was that the masking tape that currently connected the under-wing and the body was actually creating a new shape of it's own, I resolved this by flattening it down slightly but enough so that the wings would still be raised. 

The Front legs also needed to bend in slightly as they do in my Final 2D illustration. Much like the back legs there wasn't much of an issue with this. I had to add more masking tapes too parts of the mini beast to either support the structure staying up or strengthening the whole design.

Wire Sample

Process of Creating my Wire Sample

I started my wire mini beast sample by first making the long egg like shape that you can see in the image above. It required me to twist to pieces of wire together in order to make a larger shape, this process was rather easy and the wire is very easy to manipulate, I used both my hands and pliers in order to shape it.

Next I had too make the oval structure stable enough and less easy to bend so that it can stand up and support itself, In order to create a support, so that each side would not collapse when creating a 3D structure. I added wire in the middle to support the structure which spans the length of the body, after I did this, the body was further supported at the top and bottom and could not bend as easily as before. 

However, I needed to support the sides of the wire oval as well because they were flimsy. I essentially did the same technique as before but instead I connected wire from side to side of the mini beast body rather than top to bottom. This worked well and was fairly simple to do as I had previously done it before.

The right side of the body was getting weaker again, meaning I had to further strengthen it. To do this, I needed to add more wire to the design and bind it to somewhere, the only problem I faced doing this was how much it actually changed the shape of the design. As shown from the image above the design got "pulled" towards the center once I added the final piece of diagonal wire.

After fixing the issues I had last time, which included various strength problems, I then decided to add a 3D element to the body since at the moment it was very much a 2D design. The plan I had was to add wires that 'arch' from one side to another. 

The archs were added by bending the wire around in a semi cirle shape then securing each of the ends of wire to the main 2D frame. I tried to make the archs at the end of the mini beast smaller than the middle, this is because the body of a wasp is not the same size through-out, it creates a convex type of shape, and I wanted my wire mini beast to replicate this.

I believe this "convex" style of body worked quite well. I think that it looks very good as you can see the intricate body design as well as how it was structured. The wire itself was very easy to manipulate because it is very light and fragile. This made the whole process of creating a 3D body easy. 

I think I could improve on the 'smoothness' of the body, the arches are slightly jagged in some parts especially at both ends of the body which (If I had the time again) I would definitely try to improve. Furthermore, any parts of wire that come out at an angle almost perpendicular to the wire it is attached to could be flattened down, although this is not that large of an issue I think it would still be nice and make the 2D base and even somewhat the 3D base very smooth. 

During the time I was creating the 3D body for the mini beast I needed to secure the wire even more, this is because if the mini-beast well or collapsed for whatever reason then the arch in the body would bend because it was only 1 piece of wire. To fix this I connected each of the arches to the center arch that runs along the body. I did this by using a twisting technique, I took one arch off at a time then wrapped the part at the middle multiple times over the arch at the center, I did this for each of the arches until it was secure. 

I believe this worked well, It stopped each of the arches of the body coming loose, if I had the oppurtunity improve it I think it would be a good idea to tie to arches to the body alittle tighter, even though this isn't crucial it would give the overall structure a much more stable and reliable strength.

I had to make sure the body was capable of holding itself up, to test this I made legs that came from the top section of the body near the head and the bottom section near the thinner part. In order to create the legs I first connected each of the 4 wires to where they were going to be by twisting them around the lower part of the body. After all of the legs were in place I then simply curved each of them in a way that is similar to my 2D final illustration.

Creating the legs of my mini beast was easy, I didn't really struggle with any part of it and I believe it works quite well in representing my 2D final illustration. If I had to improve this design I would try and keep the wire pointed towards the floor. Although it is hard to see on this picture the legs come up from the floor which wasn't intended. However besides this I believe this works well, the overall design of my wire frame mini beast accurately represents my 2D final illustration.

Clay Sample

Process of Creating my Clay Sample

Too start my clay sample I first (as done with my previous 2 other 3D samples) referenced my 2D final Illustration to think of a way to create it using the given material. Since clay is a soft material that has no real strength especially since it needs to be soft in order to start sculpting. I began working on a base for the body, my aim for this was to not go overboard with detail and just work on the very core of the body first.

I started by taking some clay and creating a long thin piece, I then folded this piece to extend the width since the piece I started out with looked nothing like my Final 2D illustration. I then created a "tail" end of my body and the "head" which essentially a thinner part at the top with a curve tip. The "tail" end of the body was much more rounded and extended further than the head did from the body.

I decided to add very basic detail because odds are I will likely work back into it. I used a crafting knife created slits in the top portion of the body, this was fairly easy, I softened the edges using water and the slits are mainly there to replicate the body's sections as shown in the 2D illustration. I feel like this works because it gives the mini beast depth to the body and brings a more 3D 'feel' to it.

Next I created the front legs for my mini beast. This was done by first piercing a single piece of wire through the body of the clay mini beast until it is roughly equal on both sides. Next I curved both pieces of wire up towards the head until they were fully extended out front. This made the wire essentially the base shape of the legs.

Next I used a technique of cross hatching the clay with a crafting knife and applying some water to connect the clay legs to the clay body. The reason I did this is because when testing the wire's strength, I held the clay sample up off the table and the wire legs simply flopped without support. The clay legs therefore provided a very stable support for the wire legs and made it so the legs would remain parallel to the body when the structure was moved.

In my opinion the legs do look out of place with the clay and then transitioning into the wire half way through. If I had more time to focus on this I would definitely try and add more of the clay to the front and back legs in order to make the structure look nicer. As well as this, I would like to fix the crack that is currently taking up the front right leg.As for the bottom legs I did exactly the same process. As the top except curved the legs downward. The final leg was added after the wire inside slightly "rusted" therefore it gave off a brown colour.

Task 7 - Written Notes on the physical properties of the materials sampled

Task 7 - Written Notes on the physical properties of the materials sampled

Below I have discussed the positives and negatives between each of the materials used in my 3D samples, I have also compared each of them to each other to decide which one is better and why.

Papier Mache

Pros

-Easy to work with and a simple process when applying it

-It can create solid and strong shapes when successfully finished, It also leaves small room for gaps if done correctly.
-Can be changed easily when still wet.
-Very stable if applied correctly and can add attention to detail when done right.

Cons

-Can sometimes require other materials to be succesful (for instance in my papier mache sample I used wire).
-Sometimes can be hard to add detail to a structure.
-It can sometimes peel away if not applied correctly. Diluted glue also won't support the overall strength of the papier mache.
-Can take a long time to use. For example adding multiple layers to make it stronger.

Wire

Pros

-Very easy to shape and manipulate with the use of hands/pliers.
-Can support it's own weight and a little more with added support.
-Good to create a base/structure from (for instance in my 3D design I create a 2 dimensional body and then built up from that.)
-Quickly and effectively creates shapes and structures.

Cons

-Weak when not support by more wire or other materials.
-Can't feasibly create a solid object, It creates more of a 'skeleton' for the shape.
-When working with wire it can simultaneously change shape.
-Needs a vast attention to detail in order to make effective shapes.

Clay

Pros

-Malleable and very easy to alter/shape

-Can work well with other materials

-Easy to add detail too with different tools and will remain that way until it dries

-Clay can create a very solid shape once it is dried.

Cons

-Messy and needs water to sometimes work effectively.

-Dries very quickly meaning it must be constantly worked in to.

-Needs support when trying to hold itself off the floor.

-Can sometimes require other materials for it to even be effective (wire/cocktail sticks).

Comparison

In comparison to wire, clay also does not really need any other materials to actually make a solid sculpting structure out of (essentially you only need clay or wire to creating something). However with papier mache there are certain techniques using a base structure then applying layers of papier mache over it. This means that whilst clay and wire are similar in this respect, Papier mache is alot different.

Despite wire being similar to clay, It can also have it's differences. For instance wire generally creates a 'skeleton' type structure similar to a skeleton, it is light and can be seen through and looks similar to one. However. clay and papier mache tend to cover the whole sculpture or atleast can do. Whilst it is possible for wire to cover a vast majority of a surface area of a design, it is not very feasible and it would otherwise be better to use other types of graphical media. Wire also doesn't need water like papier mache and clay sometimes do to make it soft, it can simply be shaped and applied where as clay and papier mache need preparation.

Clay is a lot different to papier mache and wire, it's physical properties make it malleable, soft and easy to detail. The other forms of 3D media mentioned have nothing like this, clay is very different to wire in the sense that it can be shaped then harden to become a solid structure. Papier mache can actually be similar to clay as it can be applied with water to give it some advantages when sculpting. Clay can also show quite a lot of detail in a design, I believe that this is a similarity between the wire and clay but not so much the papier mache, as that needs a "layering" effect to make it work.

All 3 designs can all sculpt in 3D and they are all fairly easy to work with, the physical properties of them all can be similar, for example. Wire.Clay and papier mache are all soft at some part during making, the paper is soft, fragile and can even be torn quite easily. Wire is very manipulative and can be curved, bent, and twisted in various ways, furthermore, clay is also very easy to shape and manipulate using different tools. Whilst I believe that they are all extremely similar in this regard, I also think that their structural properties and physical components make them each unique and very good for specific tasks when modelling.

Task 6 - Final Sculptural Samples

3D - Sculptural Samples

Final Papier Mache Sample

This is my Final 3D Papier Mache Sample. Here I have added papier mache to the legs of my mini beast and this is probably the hardest part so far. The legs have been difficult to add because the first time I tried to apply papier mache to them, they would simply peel away since the diluted glue I used for the body was not strong enough. This means I had to strengthen the diluted glue quite a lot by adding more glue and less water, un peel the flimsy structure of the current papier mache that was applied and try again. This time I had a different approach which would not only strengthen the legs making them able to hold the entire structure up, It would strength the tape and wire that connects the legs to the body meaning it would definitely not come loose. The reason I started at the weakest part of the legs which was the tape holding the wire in place attached to the body, I applied multiple layers of papier mache using the stronger glue that I made with glue and a little water, a large paint brush to apply the glue more quickly. The reason I decided to add multiple layers of papier mache was too further strengthen the structure, I feel as though I may have lost some of the detail at this point of the mini beast but the structure must have stayed up right so It worked quite well. There was 1 final issue that I ran into which was one of the legs (I believe the front right) was constantly falling down once the papier mache was applied, to fix this, I simply had to wait for it to dry because of the aforementioned multiple layers of papier mache on the leg. After it was dry it simple stayed standing. If I had the time again, I would definitely like too add more of a head shape, personally my mini beast at the moment does not really have much of a shape to it's "head" and it's more of a body than anything else, given the time to do this task again I would really focus on constructing the head after the body, then working on the legs themselves. Whilst I am still happy with the overall Design I feel like this would be a good addition the mini beast. I would also like to make some improvements to the legs, even if that was adding 2-3 lengths of wire per leg instead of one, this would make them stronger but perhaps might make them less easy to manipulate or change. However these are not that big of changes compared to the overall good points about my design, It holds itself up, It is quite diverse and relates to my final 2D illustration quite a lot and I'm personally happy with what I achieved on this design.

Final Wire Sample

This is my Final 3D wire sample. It has a lot improvements and tweaks compared to the last picture shown in the process. The overall design to the mini beast works well, it looks similar to how it did in my 2D illustration and also gives the 3D feel of it whilst remaining to be a 'skeleton' type figure. The front legs (in my opinion) were definitely the hardest part of the whole model to create. The spikes on the legs took a long time to create because I had to try various methods in order to get them to stay that way.

The good parts about my design is the fact that it can support it's own weight 100%. It does not need any further support and as shown in the image above the fragile and curved legs will still suspend the body off the ground. I think this part was a success and it definitely defined the overall "3D" part of my sample. Furthermore the body is incredibly stable for a wire sample, it utilizes strengthen itself by binding multiple parts together in order to get a stronger whole structure.

The bad parts of my design is the fact that I did rush the wings, I wanted to add more detail into this section of the design and I just simply did not have enough time. I would like to have gone back to this but they still did work for a basic shape and design that also maintained the 3D feel to the creature. Another draw back is that the legs are too plain (specifically the back legs). The single wire in my opinion is just not effective and does not really stand out on anything besides white paper. Whilst I am quite happy about my wire design I think a lot more could be done to improve it.

Final Clay Sample

This clay sample is my final 3D sample. This was a success because of it's easy methods of manipulation and attention to detail. I used my 2D final illustration as a reference, and created the body with a crafting knife and molding the clay into a tear drop like shape and stretching it out. I used a large amount of clay for the body so that it would not be as easy to fall apart once it hardened. The legs are a success in the sense that they will stay in position and not fall down (like they previously).

The improvements I would make to this structure are very much about overall detail of the mini beast. This design is simply not detailed enough in my opinion, the legs don't have spikes much like my wire sample and are lacking the detail to make them stand out a side from the body. In addition, the head is also just molded downwards towards the table and there are no 'eyes' on the front that I would like to have added provided I had more time.

In conclusion, this mini beast was definitely not the best in my opinion but the areas where it is a success it looks and feels like it should. The wire piercing through the clay is somewhat of a downside as I would've like to have the body seem completely made out of clay. The final drawback to this design is that there are a lot of cracks from where the clay has hardened but it was not strong enough, to resolve this I could have created a overall stronger sculpture or simply attached each piece together in a better way. 

Task 4 - Final Mixed Media Illustration

Final 2D Illustration

Mixed Media Illustration Description

This is my Final Mixed Media Illustration, I have drawn this as a reference from one of my earlier alternate design ideas as shown below.

[Picture of Ink alternate mixed media design here]

Media Used:

-Ink

-Pencil

-A3 Paper

-Fine liner Pen

-White Oil Pastel

-Collage

Evaluation

Before I started my A3 Final 2D illustration I first had to do rough measurements of my alternative design idea because I needed to scale it up from A4 to A3 paper for my final piece.

 I also considered a design for my background but I ended up decided on a flat pale green colour of background, this is because it highlights some of the detail within the small parts of the mini beast such as the legs, arms, and even wings. I believe the overall design of the 2D illustration was a success, the contrast between the foreground (mini beast) and the pale green background works very well, it separates the darker colours from the vibrante colours fairly well and it shows levels of detail that I was adamant on showing in my final design, for instance, the 'pointy' style of legs/arms, the 'bubbly' feel of skin which is somewhat shown through a contrast in texture between the mini beast and the background.

Another main feature of my 2D Final illustration is that it utilizes a lot of media to really make it all work. I think the White Oil Pastel used in tandem with Ink made a really nice effect on the body. The white leaves the sections of the body visibilly seperate yet joined due to the outline. In addition to this the "bubbles" that dried on top of the oil pastel worked quite well.

The wings are made using a similar resistances technique except they utilise pencil for the thiin outline, water colours for the 'over hang' of the wings and it fades from front to back. These also worked well but I would have liked to fade the blue to white alittle smoother, If i could Improve it that would definitely be something that I should have done better.

However, their are some parts of my final 2D illustration I dislike and would definitely change if I had the time again. For instance, I think I would definitely like to get a blue ink to replace the current black one. In my alternative design idea I used a different ink without realizing but it worked better than in my final illustration. I since tried mixing blue and black ink together, blue water colours and black ink but they didn't work the same, therefore I stuck to the regular black ink. In my opinion my 2D Final Illustration was a success, it has used a range of graphical media and the outcome is very unique to my alternative design.

Task 3 - Mixed Media Studies

Mixed Media Studies

Colour and Surface Visual Library

Primary and Secondary Paint

Primary and Secondary Paint

In this sample I have used 2 primary colours in order to make a secondary colour by overlapping them. For purple, I mixed red and blue paint together and then painted the box above. To illustrate this, I painted a smaller red and blue box with a paint brush. I repeated the same process for the green and orange examples except I used the neccassary colours to create them, these can be seen next to them on the left.

Pencil Tone

To create these pencil samples, I used a simple shading effect with the left side of the pencil in order to cover more surface area. To create the fade from dark to lighter, I pressed heavily on the pencil then gradually applied less and less pressure until I appled barely any at all. This way a fairly easy process and I did not have much trouble.

Felt tip

In these samples I used differently colour felt tips and different techniques to make the samples appear as if they were fading. This worked quite well in the top 2 samples mainly because it is far easier to notice. In the first instance, I used 3 different shades of blue felt tip and drew out 6 rows of vertical lines. In the top 2 I used a darker blue with little spacing to make it feel darker. In the next 2 rows, I used a lighter blue that was thicker, this made it have a 'fade' effect similar to the pencil samples. The final 2 rows were done in an even lighter felt tip with less lines.

For the second green sample, I drew a zig zag type of shape in rows (even though it isn't clear). The reason I did this was an attempt to spread them out and gradually get lighter. I used 3 shades of green and the zig zag eventually got larger towards the top of the page.

My other samples cannot be seen well but I had to blend them in a similar way to how I blended the pencil. I used red orange and yellow felt tips for these samples. In the first one (on the left) I did a similar technique to my first pencil shading except I had to make it fade from yellow to orange to red. I did this by applying less and less pressure to the felt tip when I was drawing with it. The second sample didn't really work, I had to use magazine similar to my pencil study. The red is far bolder than the yellow and orange and I could improve this if I did it again.

Ink

My ink samples were all made using a paintbrush. I used a resistance technique for the first sample using oil pastels and ink. I did this by first applying some white oil pastel onto the page in a zig zag type of shape down the page. I then waited until it was dryer and painted over with ink using a paintbrush.

My second sample was done by fading the ink. To do this, I applied water to the paper first, then applied ink with more towards the top. This worked really well and the only time I had a problem with this was when I applied too much water.

The 3rd sample is a flat black ink sample, I applied the ink to the paper using a paintbrush.

The final 2 were actually created with sticks and ink, The first is dots that eventually fade and they were created by adding a lot of ink to the stick then dabbing it at the top. The further away from the top I dabbed, the less ink I applied. The final ink sample was created a similar way except instead of using a dabbing technique I created a zig zag pattern then let the ink run out. I copied this technique multiple times over so that the ink looks like it has faded.

Charcoal

My charcoal samples were created using my fingers. The background for them all was created by smudging the a flat grey charcoal background. I created 4 backgrounds for my different samples then for each I applied a different effect. For the first sample, I took a very thin part of a rubber then swiped from left to right, creating a very distorted zig zag. This effect worked very well and I would have liked to have used this more often. The second sample was a similar effect except I smudged the charcoal out of the background using  my fingers in parallel lines. The next sample was created by using sticks and drawing with more charcoal in horizontal lines once the charcoal had dried. My final sample was simply the flat grey background.

Pencil Line

The first sample I created was the bottom right sample. It consisted of lines that I had to draw using freehand and as accurately straight down the page, It also had to have varying tone. I created this effect by taking pressure off my hand at particular points. This was the most difficult and time consuming sample I produced because of how much my accuracy suffered whenever relieving pressure.

The second sample was the top right sample. It was similar to the blue felt tip sample because I was trying to achieve the same fade effect whilst maintaining the rows of lines. I created this sample still using the tip of the pencil to draw to create the thin lines towards the end. The final 2 samples are curved samples and required me to move the pencil in similar ways of motion. The first is the bottom left sample. This was created by drawing lines that represented the last, all the way until the end of the page one after another. This became disfigured towards the end of the page and eventually looked nothing like the last. The Top left sample was created by curving a figure of 8 using the entirety of the page.

Oil Pastel Scratchings

All of my Oil pastel Scratching samples were created using a scratch technique. A colour was placed underneath another similar to my water colours samples. I then scratched through the surface of the first colour with a stick to reveal the second colour behind it. The colours for each sample are: Red/Yellow, Green/Blue, Blue/Purple, Yellow/Green. I then scratched in different patterns for each of them.

Pencil Shade

The second batch of Pencil Sketches were created by making patterns then fading them gradually down towards the bottom of the page. The samples use these different patterns: A gradual soft standard shade, Horizontal sets of diagonal lines, Continual scribble line, and finally a crosshatch. They were all made using the pencil and no rubber or erasing technique. I simply applied less pressure down towards the bottom of the page.

2 water colours with resistance techniques

The water colour resistance tehcniques were done using different resistance materials. The first used glue which was applied before hand, left to dry then painted over with a fade from yellow to red. The second was string that was placed but then removed once the paint had time to dry. The next was masking tape, the red to yellow fade was done from right to left and the masking tape remained on the sample because this simply looked nicer. The final sample was red to yellow water colour but went from the outskirts of the border to the center, the resistance technique I used with this sample was string which then stayed on the design.

Watercolour

My water colour samples Included 2 different variations. The first was to draw 8 different sections and then once it was dry, I used the same colour but more concentrated to paint vertical lines which all eventually connected. I found this study very effective and It looked very appealing. The 2nd water colour study was to blend yellow to blue, to red then finally to yellow again in 1 continuous line. I did this by using a paint brush to apply the different concentrations of paint to the study. In order to blend the colours together I applied water to the parts that needed blending as this mixed the colours whilst creating a blend effect simultaneously.

Task 2 - Alternative design ideas

Alternative Design ideas

1st Alternative Design Idea

My first alternative design idea uses the wings of a fly, the body of a butterfly and the legs of a centipede. I decided to choose these parts of the insects I have drawn because I made a mini beast that is some what recognizable.

2nd Alternative Design Idea

My 2nd alternative design uses the legs of a secondary source image of a beetle I had drawn previously. It also uses the body of a wasp and the wings of fly.

3rd Alternative Design Idea

The 3rd alternative design I have drawn uses the wings of a butterfly, the antenna of a ladybird and the legs of a fly. It also includes the body of a secondary source beetle that is part of the pencil and tone drawings I had previously produced.

3rd Alternative Design Idea (Second Version)

I reproduced this 3rd alternative design idea with various improvements. The antenna are longer and more twisted, as are the legs. There is less detail on the wings and they also appear thinner than before because the wings of a butterfly are quite delicate, so I have tried to replicate this in one of my alternative design ideas.

4th Alternative Design Idea

The 4th and final design idea I produced used the body and legs of the same beetle, it used the same wings of the fly as my 2nd design Idea because I quite liked the design of these, It also uses the same antenna as before as well.

Task 1 - Secondary source Images

Secondary source Images

Butterfly

Media Used

-A4 Paper

-Fine liner pen

Beetle

 Media Used

-A4 Paper

-Fine liner pen

Wasp

 Media Used

-A4 Paper

-Pencil

-Rubber

Beetle 2

 Media Used

-A4 Paper

-Pencil

-Rubber

Centipede

 Media Used

-A4 Paper

-Pencil

Ladybird

 Media Used

-A4 Paper

-Pencil

-Rubber

Fly

Media Used

-A4 Paper

-Fine liner pen

Pen Drawing Process

My pen drawings were very simple drawings to create. I used some techniques such as applying less pressure to create thinner lines. My pen drawings (the wasp, the butterfly and the beetle) all turned out very well. I think this is because the bolder line in comparison to the pen looks a lot. In addition to this, the pen is far easier to use than pencil, It is simply drawing and there are not as much techniques of applying it such as using a pencil. The pen samples are all line drawings besides the wasp which I attempted to shade with. This was a good idea for me, as it shows that pen can also work just as well as pencil when applying shade/tone. The only drawback I could find when using pen was the fact that they can not be erased.

Pencil Drawing Process

The process of drawing my pencil samples was fairly complicated. A vast majority of my pencil samples all required rubber and fingers to create a smudging effect to make a flat grey body. Some of my samples are line samples which I used the tip of the pencil to create rather than the side which I used in some of my other samples to draw on a larger surface area faster. I believe my most successful sample is the wasp. It worked incredibly well from the bold detail in the body due to the lower half being shaded well, to the strong black coloured eyes. In my opinion I prefer pencil to pen but I do like both and I have shown that they can be used in a number of ways.